NEWS

Italian and European textiles. What direction are they taking and what’s in store?
Without a doubt there is more strategy and more awareness today compared to a few years ago, not only in terms of how much we can do in Italy but also in Europe and the rest of the world. We mustn’t forgot that 50% of all fashion textile sales are Italian. Our system is and will still in the future be the cutting edge of the European textile and fashion system.

Delocalised production was a central theme at Cannes back in 2007 too. How do you think a EuroMed production system will progress, with production outsourced to Eastern Europe and the Mediterranean?
In 30 years of association life I have learned that businessmen’s strategies are almost always successful, as they are the result of important things they have experienced directly. In the last year and a half some production has returned to Italy. Although it’s not exactly a change of direction, it is nonetheless an important detail. From statistical information in our sector you can see that we have regained value also thanks to reduced production in terms of quantity but increasingly higher in terms of quality. Today a system like the Italian one, if it wants to be competitive, can only aim for quality, not cheaper prices.  Anyone who aims for value and quality could choose to manufacture in Italy, anyone who wants to aim for a mix of numbers and quality is right to experiment with new manufacturing formulas. Only time will tell if the strategies to delocalise to areas like the larger EuroMed area are the right choice.

How do you think the relationship between the “upstream and downstream markets” is developing, in other words between textile/accessories production and garment manufacturing?
Ours is the only organisation with 2,500 associate companies representing the whole production system. We have organised several meetings where “upstream and downstream” businessmen have shown to be very interested in collaborating. Although there is still much work to do we can confirm that relationships are continuing to improve. We really are getting closer.

Which markets do you consider important for increasing new business opportunities for European luxury products?
The Russian market today is the most important for Italian fashion for women, and has overtaken the United States market, just to give an idea of its importance. There is also a potential market that offers interesting possibilities in terms of numbers and that increasingly tries to imitate us: China.
The third most important market is Brazil, where the beachwear sector has a harder time, but not other categories. Another very interesting area is the United Arab Emirates, which requires decidedly high end products. 

In which areas should European industry invest more: Human resources and professional training, research and development, or new technologies?
In the last year and a half we have invested in specialist training dedicated to the textile-fashion sector in our country to create a degree and post-degree level of standards. The idea is to bring in young people, especially foreign young people and people with other skills that can give added value to the world of fashion and textiles. Our companies must think less about family ties and invest more in human resources, in delegating, in young people, therefore in research rather than new technologies.I am convinced that young people in a system like ours are indispensable if they are educated and trained correctly. When they think of fashion many young people think of its most evident aspect: the fashion shows. Few of them know what lies behind. This gap must be filled.

A University of Fashion. Italy lags behind the rest of Europe in this respect, why?
For the way our secondary education system is structured I don’t think a fashion university would be a good idea, it would suffocate the new resources rather than give them a chance to develop their creativity.  I have much more faith in specialist institutes that give added value to the basic training that they have already acquired and that allow them to come into our system more aware and better prepared.

What are the strengths and weaknesses of the European system today compared to thirty years ago?
Its strength is awareness. Being aware of its own limits as well as its many resources. Our quality level continues to improve. It means that the gap with other markets will be unbridgeable for many years yet, we still have growth margins that can increase this “advantage”. Its weakness is the size of our companies, they are too small to compete in a wider, more competitive and globalised market. Our companies are used to operating on a domestic market, not on 60/70 different markets.

What are the main issues being tackled by Sistema Moda Italia at the moment?
First of all promotion, especially abroad. We are opening a delegate office in Shanghai, which will become a reference point for all businessmen interested in conquering the Chinese market. We are also committed to defending a fashion textile system that, despite the knocks of recent years, still counts for over 25% national trade balance and is a clear reference point for the whole of our “Made in Italy” sector.

30 June 2008